The Many Splendid Colors of Europe

Disclaimer: Some assertions and generalizations are made below. They are based on my impressions and are not meant to be taken as solid facts or overwhelming truths.

“Europe” is not a cohesive, uniform place. Let alone the differences between far apart countries that speak different languages (say, for instance, Bosnia Herzegovina and Spain) even small countries have a wide variance of behaviors, dialects, assumptions, and mores (say, for instance, the different regions of Bosnia Herzegovina or Spain.)

But there were some things I noticed that contrast with the US, and I’m not just talking how many Carrefour and Spar shops were all over the place. It seems to these eyes that community still exists in many parts of Europe that it does not in the US. People play in the parks even after night has fallen. There is seemingly less fear and anger. The idea of Third Space exists. Germany has the concept of Feierabend , the time after work (but sometimes before home) where you disconnect from work and perhaps stroll in the park or pursue a hobby.

You don’t need me to go over the ways that Europe (in general) does things better than America. Better health care, better education, and understanding that there is more to the world than just their own countries..the list goes on. Price wise it’s generally much cheaper to get things like coffee and groceries, even in expensive countries like the Netherlands or Denmark. And you don’t even want to know how cool German windows are!

Nonetheless, there are at least 5 ways Europe needs to improve. America is a crumbling Empire with a social safety net in tatters and frankly, Europe, it’s embarrassing that you have fallen behind in these metrics.

1 Public Bathrooms – In the US, in towns small or big, it’s pretty easy to find a bathroom. They’re free of charge and usually cleanish. In Europe, it’s a different story. Public loos are rare and when you find one they usually cost money. In the Eurozone, it’s one thing, but if you’ve just arrived (or are on a bus) you might not have that country’s currency yet. It’s all needlessly complicated.

2 Smoking – This is a big one for me. Smoking is so gross and yet it’s still like the 60’s in Europe. It’s not even a matter of personal vices: subjecting other people to second hand smoke is just being an asshole.

3 Water – Humans consist of more than 50 percent water and yet in Europe you would never know it. It’s an added cost to get water with your meal. Come on, guys! Water in restaurants, like public restrooms, should be a public right.

4. Traditionalism – This one is more a preference. But many Europeans I’ve met, even ones that are leftists politically, are very conservative in their life choices. Like they won’t change their hair or try food from a a new country. In the US, novelty is a virtue. That’s an arbitrary decision and it’s certainly possible to take it too far, but it leads to a diversity of experiences. Many Europeans, it seems to me, don’t have that same zest for trying new things.

5. Religious Legacy – Americans are famously insanely religious but many countries in Europe have stores closed on Sundays because of God or whatever. That Catholic legacy does tie into worker rights but as a traveler arriving somewhere on a weekend and having few places open is a bummer. And of course the less religion controls us, the better off we’re doing.

Anyway this isn’t really about the differences between continents. It’s about photos! I’m going to bombard you with the best photos I took in 6 months and across 20 countries. My first thought was to limit it to 3 photos and then I upped to 5 but you know what? I’m just going with the amount that feels right for each country.

Albania

I really only saw Tirana, which oddly reminded me of Seoul. The Bunk Art 1 Museum is one of the weirdest, coolest places I’ve ever seen.

Austria

I just saw Graz as I was visiting friends, but there I got to visit the biggest armory of medieval weapons in the world. And, you know, also hang out with my friends.

Bosnia

Mostar is so cool and Bosnia is not an ugly country. I met up with my sister here and we traveled together for the next month or so.

Bulgaria

Bulgaria is a little looked down upon by travelers but I liked Sofia and Plovdiv is as charming a city as you can find.

Croatia

I just saw Split and the area around it but it’s a pretty amazing place. The history + the beaches + the Game of Thrones connection = COME ON!

Czech Republic

Prague lived up to the hype. It’s just a little sad that they only pour you half a beer at a time.

Estonia

Estonia has made the shortlist of S-Tier countries (for me). Vegan food, nature, historical city, friendly people, and delivery robots: what more could you ask for?

Finland

Ever since I was in high school I longed to visit Finland. I only managed to visit Helsinki on a day trip but it couldn’t have been better.

Germany

I visited my friends Josie and El Capitan (who I met at immigration in Lombok in like 2014?) and really like Berlin. Vegan food is off the hook and there is a great Thai market on weekends as well.

Kosovo

Kosovo is a gem. I love the people there and the cities are so explorable. It’s so good that you’ll forgive them for the Bill Clinton statue.

Latvia

Latvia was for me, not as photogenic as either of its Baltic neighbors, but it was great for nights out and long wanders.

Lithuania

The land of Arvydas Sabonis.

Northern Macedonia

Ohrid is another true treasure of the world but Skopje is a really interesting city as well.

Netherlands

Only had one night (a long layover) here but it was almost Christmas and it was a cool time to visit.

Poland

I thought I’d be here for longer. My experience with my school left a bad taste in my mouth, but Waraw is really great and the other cities I saw were legit too.

Romania

Romania was on the short list of my favorite countries in the Balkans. Bucharest is a cool city but it’s really all about those hills and forests of Transylvania.

Slovakia

I didn’t spend a whole long in Slovakia but it was long enough to meet my friend and artistic collaborator Esther, visit a KBG pub, see the Smurf church, and climb up to a castle.

Slovenia

One of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever seen.

Turkey

I was in Istanbul for longer than anywhere else, about 6 weeks, house and cat-sitting. Istanbul is a city like no other and I didn’t see half of it despite constant forays and exploration.

Announcement

I’m all out of photo space on this blog, which is believe-it-or-not, almost 15 years old. So this post marks the end of Are We There Yeti. If you’re one of the few people still reading it, many thanks. I regret to announce — this is The End. I am going now. I bid you all a very fond farewell. Goodbye.

Best of 2022 (in photos)

After a Covid break for 2020 and 2021, Are We There Yeti’s best of is back. You can see previous years: 200920102011,  2012201320142015, 2016, 2017  2018 and 2019.

I only really got going halfway through the year, but I made it matter. I have never been one to count countries, or to think to hard about how many I’ve been too, but I did a lot of travelling this year. In the end, I visited 21 new countries this year. My count, for what it’s worth, is up to 48, so close to half the countries I’ve been to I saw this year for the first time

Now, I’m more of a slow traveler by inclination. Traditionally I aim for a minimum of one month per country and try to return to see more. For example, I’ve been to Thailand 10 times, Malaysia just short of that, Nepal 4 times and so on. That did not happen this year. Some countries I spent as little as 2 nights in. (Sorry, Slovakia!) I also had to leave out some places that I really wanted to see (like Budapest, like Tbilisi) but it’s just a good reminder that travel is about the places you see, not the places you didn’t.

It wasn’t just a year of Europe. My sister took me on a surprise trip to San Diego for my birthday. It was my first time back since I lived there in 2006. And in March I went to Chicago, and also to Wisconsin, for the first time for a role-playing game convention.

It was a year up with the halcyon highs of 2013/14 and 2019. Perhaps it even exceeded them.

The rules are, as always, one photo per month, but that hardly seems fair. I may also do a follow-up with at least three photos per country.

January 2022

January â€“ A hike at one my favorite places: Cape Horn. This hike is good year round but in the winter, with snow in the mountains, it’s fairly exceptional. It’s nice little climb up and if you have time it makes for a great long loop.


February 2022

February â€“ The afore-mentioned trip to San Diego took me to one of my favorite restaurants of all time. Pokez! Incredibly, it hadn’t changed (other than prices) since I was last there in 2002 or 2003. Yeah it’s a sloppy photo but sometimes you just gotta embrace the slop. The entire trip was great, with visits to Hillcrest Balboa Park, the cactus garden, Pacific Beach and some glorious sunsets and a good run along the waterfront.


March 2022

March â€“ This is the house that Dungeons and Dragons was invented in. In March, I went to Gary Con with my best friend. Gary Con is a convention for old school roleplaying games (named after Gary Gygax) and Wind and I had an amazing time, meeting up with old friends and making new ones. I even got my dice blessed at the shrine to Gary Gygax.


April 2022

April â€“ Pretty much my favorite thing ever is the UK show Taskmaster. I got my friends to gather in the park with me and play Taskmaster for several hours. I don’t know if I have ever laughed so hard and I can’t imagine a much better way to turn a year older. This was at Rocky Butte, which is another one of my favorite places in Portland.


May 2022

May – There is a place called Fernhill Wetlands close to my mom’s house. I go running there sometimes but next to Fernhill is a farm with baby goats. For reasons I can’t guess at but am so grateful for, these baby goats jump all over me when I go by.


June 2022

June â€“ The trip began in Berlin. I love that city. It’s so walkable, and so vegan-friendly and the funky Kreuzberg area feels so much like Portland. Berlin feels smaller than I was expecting but in a good way. It’s a place you can walk for hours and hours and see so much good stuff. They have also have the best vegan donuts I’ve ever seen.


July 2022

July – I had a job in Poland. It ended very badly but I really liked Warsaw. It’s an amazing city but to be fair, Krakow is the more beautiful place to visit for a day or two. It’s such an atmospheric city, gorgeous in the rain, and there is a fire-breathing dragon. But this wildflower and palace combo took place in a rare break from the rain so I really appreciated it.


August 2022

August– The Baltics were a place I wanted to visit for decades and they didn’t disappoint. Lithuania was the kind of country I would like to live. Latvia is a wonderful place; I met so many great new friends in Riga. But Tallinn, Estonia stole my heart. It’s a top 5 city in the world for me. My Estonian friend Merit helped me to see places outside the city: we saw a WWII submarine, a Soviet era quarry/prison, a forest lacking mushrooms but full of berries, a haunted castle, and this bog, which was so nice for swimming.


September 2022

September â€“ Slovenia was another country I had wanted to see for at least two decades. Ljubljana didn’t live up to my high expectations, but Lake Bled exceeded them. Swimming in the lake was one of the single-best experiences of my summer. Even the sunbeams seem to agree that Bled is a special place.


October 2022

October â€“ I spent October traveling the Balkans with my sister. We met in Bosnia, bussed to Montenegro, then went to Albania, Northern Macedonia, and Kosovo. Kosovo is probably the second friendliest country I’ve ever been (hard to top Myanmar). but our hike in Kotor, bookended by laps full of purring kittens, was another perfect travel day, even if we did hike a bit more than we expected.


November 2022

November â€“ At some point I realized I had to be in Romania for Halloween. My sister was going to Budapest but I was all out of Schengen days. With Transylvania so close I had to go. Many travelers don’t, but I loved Bucharest. However, Romania gets better when you get up into the traditional parts. I spent long enough in Sighisoara that people thought it was weird (it’s a very small town) but that was in October. I spent a chilly morning exploring Brasov and it was all vibes.


December 2022

December â€“ I spent 6 weeks in Turkey, house and catsitting for a friend I worked with in South Korea. Istanbul is a great city, very historical, and hilly as anywhere I’ve ever been. This view of the full moon over the Martyr bridge in the district I was staying is one that a picture really can’t capture but a good embodiment of my time there.


Friends

I wouldn’t be able to do a count, but I had so many days and nights of meeting new people and making new friends. Especially the crew at the Naughty Squirrel but almost every place I stayed I had a great chat with the people around me. That’s a huge, mind-expanding part of travelling. There are definitely people I want to go back and visit and I owe thanks my friends Merit, Jade and Sabrina, Joni, Esther, and Josi for hosting and showing me around some cool places.

Budget

With flights, more expensive accommodation than expected, and getting shorted a month’s salary by my school in Poland, it was an expensive year. I’m a budget traveler and even 8 bed hostels were as much as 50 euros a night. Luckily, eating from the grocery store is still manageable and some places are more reasonable for housing. My sister is my travel hero, both loaning me money and often footing the bill when we traveled. It means I was able to do everything I did for about 800 a month.

Future Plans

Still taking shape but I’m hoping for some big hikes next year.