Had a great night sleep–not too cold not too warm and no funky dreams. Had a semi-sleep in until 7:30 am as it’s only a 5 hour day today. (Though gaining 1300 meters elevation.) It’s chilly this morning and I began hiking in my jacket.
Either the past few days are catching up with me or the hiking is harder or perhaps both, but from the town of Dovan I stop being faster than the map times and end up much slower. The hiking is quite nice, as it begins in a mossy forest ringing with bird songs. I stopped for lunch in Durali for an epic plate of fried rice that only took about 10 minutes to come out (laser fast for Nepali lodge times) and missed a brief rainstorm. Met a cool dude from Osaka who had lived in Madrid for 7 years and a burly Czech couple who likewise waited out the rain.
It was cold–I put on my jacket at lunch and never took it back off. It took some climbing after Durali–600 meters in 2 hours. It hailed for the first hour and then finally decided to start snowing. Went through some avalanche chutes where dumbass hikers stopped for photos. Listening to (and finished) an audio book of Brave New World. Such a sweet book. People worry about the nightmares of Orwell so much that they sometimes forget that the world of Huxley is already here.
The snow was heavier and heavier, and I reached MBC just before 2, where I scored another dorm room for 150 rupees where I would end up being the only person there. The room had BIG warm sweaty buffalo kind of blankets and I grabbed two of them.
We were high enough that everything was majorly expensive, but stopping early you sometimes need to order a big pot of hot lemon and buy an overpriced canister of pringles to sit and watch the snow come down. Met lots of cool hikers and played a huge game of Asshole with a bunch of Dutch and Brits. Ate an improbably good dahl baat for 550 rupees and was in bed 10 minutes before 8. Getting up early to get to Annapurna Base Camp tomorrow.
HEIGHT: 3700 meters
GUESTHOUSE: Machupuchare GH 150/room
DAILY BUDGET: 1000 rupes