The climbing of the last couple days was hard enough that my calves ached to the point where it was hard to sleep. But had an excellent veg fried rice and, upon Ashraf’s advice slept in just my boxers in the sleeping bag. After about 5 minutes, it was very warm and I didn’t feel cold during the night.
Today we will pass Lukla, which means we’ll catch up with the majority of trekkers. So far we’ve only seen an old Swiss dude and two spacey Danish hippies. It’s another day of 800 meters up and about the same down. Aye caramba!
We left at 7:30 and walked until 1, where we stopped for lunch. Best mountain views yet–beginning to become a bit of a theme. More of the nice rhododendrons were blooming. A couple of good adventurers this morning–a donkey charged me! I was already on the side of the path and had to leap away, into the ditch. No harm done though, and though my heart was beating I was uninjured. Less than an hour later, I tried to slip by a big bull standing in the middle of the path. He turned and horned me. I had to catch his horns and was knocked over by the force of it. Luckily the ground was dry here as well. And then, less than two hours later, a little goat charged me. This was just cute though–but still, there was something about my appearance or (more likely) smell that day.
Anyway, lunch was great–chowmin with lots of veggies and bountiful amounts of soy sauce. We walked on and up, ever climbing. The last two hours, where we joined the trail from Lukla (and just before) were the best yet. Lots of flat, some crazy big boulders, streams, mani wheels, picturesque villages, and friendly people.
We reached our intended destination but all of us were feeling good so we pushed on for another hour, to a nice village called Ghat. We turned down a few 200 rupee rooms and found a nice one for 100. It featured the first Western toilet of the trek and some really good food.
A guide walked with us for a bit. When he found out where we left and did some calculating, he nodded in approval. “Very fast. This is Nepali time,” he said. He was maybe being nice, but we did cover 29 kilometers in 8 hours. Ghat is only at 2592 meters, so we’ve net gained less than 200 meters these three days of hiking. It’s brutal, but I am tiger balming like a champ.
The chlorine pills aren’t nearly as annoying as I thought. Nonetheless, two bottles are vital, as it takes 30-60 minutes for them to work. We’re shooting for Namche tomorrow–the thought of bakeries is powerful antidote to the fear of 1000 meters of elevation gain.
I haven’t been hungry–body is too tired So my budget so far has been less than 7 dollars a day. But prices keep going up. I still haven’t showered–will save it for Namche!
From / To: Bhupsa to Ghat
Elevation: 2592 meters
Lodge: Llama Lodge
Budget: 725 rupees